Commisioning and Decommissioning
to/from transport

• ASSEMBLY / DISSASSEMBLY

  1. Understand height requirements, particularly power yachts with fly bridges and arches, including hauler deck heights
  2. Dismantle to meet requirements
    • Propeller(s)
    • Mast / spreaders / furling, rigging
    • Hatch securement
    • Canvas
    • Arches
    • Antennas
    • Lights
    • Seats
    •  Windshields
    • Anchors
  3. Store / secure all loose materials
  4. Mark components for reassembly; a number to number match 1-1 is easy
  5. Protect components with tape, lanocote, shrinkwrap, bubble wrap and or carpet.
  6. Shrink wrap required

• BEFORE YOU LAUNCH – After Transport:

  1.  Inspect and lubricate seacocks. Hoses and hose clamps should be inspected and replaced as necessary.
  2. Replace deteriorated anodes.
  3. Inspect prop(s) for dings, pitting and distortion. Make sure cotter pins are secure. Grip the prop and try moving the shaft – if it’s loose, the cutlass bearing may need to be replaced.
  4. Check to make sure the rudderstock hasn’t been bent.
  5. Inspect the hull for blisters, distortions and stress cracks.
  6. Make sure your engine intake sea strainer is free of corrosion, clean and properly secured.
  7. Check the engine shaft and rudder stuffing boxes for looseness.
  8. After the boat is launched, be sure to check all through-hulls for leaks.
  9. Use a hose to check for deck leaks at ports and hatches. Renew caulk or gaskets as necessary.
  10. If equipped, ensure that the stern drain plug is installed.
  11. Bottom Paint
  12. Winterization / de winterization required for the climate

•OUTDRIVES and OUTBOARDS:

  1.  Inspect rubber outdrive bellows for cracked, dried and/or deteriorated spots (look especially in the folds), and replace if suspect.
  2. Check power steering and power trim oil levels.
  3. Check outdrive fluid for moisture
  4. Replace anodes that are more than half worn away or are changing service (waters).
    • Magnesium for fresh water,
    • Aluminum for brackish water
    • Zinc for salt water
  5. Inspect outer jacket of control cables. Cracks or swelling indicate corrosion and mean that the cable must be replaced.

•ENGINES AND FUEL SYSTEMS:

  1. Inspect fuel lines, including fill and vent hoses, for softness, brittleness or cracking.
    • Check all joints for leaks and make sure all lines are well supported with non-combustible clips or straps with smooth edges.
  2. Inspect fuel tanks, fuel pumps and filters for leaks.
    • Clamps should be snug and free of rust. Clean or replace fuel filters.
    • Owners of gasoline-powered boats with fiberglass fuel tanks should consult a marine professional to inspect for any ethanol related issues.
  3. Inspect cooling hoses for stiffness, rot, leaks and/or cracking.
    • Make sure they fit snugly and are double-clamped.
  4. Every few years, remove and inspect exhaust manifold for corrosion.
  5. Clean and tighten electrical connections, especially both ends of battery cables.
    • Wire-brush battery terminals and fill cells with distilled water (if applicable).
  6. Inspect bilge blower hose for operation and leaks.

• SAILBOAT STANDING RIGGING:

  1. Inspect swage fittings for cracks and heavy rust (some discoloration is acceptable).
  2. Look at fittings for broken strands
  3. Inspect wire halyards and running backstays for “fishhooks” and rust.
  4. Inspect wire for “candy cane” spiral rust
  5. Remove tape on turnbuckles at seasons end and lubricate threads, preferably with Teflon.
  6. Tape and covers will encourage stainless failure
  7. Replace old tape with fresh tape at beginning of season
  8. Re-caulk through-deck chainplates as necessary (generally, once a decade).
  9. If you suspect the core around the chainplate is damp, remove the chainplates to inspect and make repairs.
  10. Inspect pins and cotters
  11. Tune Rig

•TRAILERS:

  1.  Inspect tire treads and sidewalls for cracks or lack of tread and replace as necessary.
    • Check air pressure.
    • Don’t forget the spare!
  2. Inspect wheel bearings and repack as necessary.
  3. Test tail and back-up lights and winch to make sure they’re working properly.
    • Lubricate electrical connector(s) with anticorrosive paste
  4. Inspect hitch chains and hooks.
  5. Inspect trailer frame for rust.
    1. Sand and paint to prevent further deterioration.
  6. Inspect brakes and brake fluid reservoir.

•A SAFE BOAT:

  1. Check expiration dates on flares and fire extinguishers.
  2. Check stove and remote tanks for loose fittings and leaking hoses.
  3. Inspect bilge pump and float switch to make sure they’re working properly.
  4. Inspect dock and anchor lines for chafing.
  5. Update or replace old charts, waterway guides.
  6. Check shore power cable connections for burns, which indicates the cable and/or the shore power inlet must be replaced.
  7. Make sure your boating license and/or registration is up to date.
    • Don’t forget your trailer tags.
  8. Review your boat insurance policy and update coverage if needed. Be sure you have fuel spill insurance coverage.
  9. Make sure you have properly sized and wearable life jackets in good condition for each passenger, including kids.
  10. Test smoke, carbon monoxide, fume and bilge alarms.
  11. Be sure to get a free vessel safety check from the U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary or U.S. Power Squadrons.
  12. Find out how at Safetyseal.net .